MUMBAI: In an interesting twist to the Kolhapuri chappal saga, two state government corporations have claimed the exclusive right to hold discussions between international luxury fashion brand Prada and local craftspeople who make the slipper, as they are the official owners of the Geographical Indication (GI) tag assigned to the traditional footwear.
The development comes amid discussions between Prada and the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) about a possible collaboration with local artisans to take the Kolhapuri chappal to global markets.
A GI tag, a form of intellectual property, identifies a unique geographic origin for a product, and helps protect the traditional craftsmanship and heritage associated with it. A GI tag was assigned to the Kolhapuri chappal in 2019, with ownership vested in two state corporations – Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation Ltd (LIDCOM) and Dr Babu Jagjivanram Leather Industries Development Corporation Limited (LIDKAR).
LIDCOM Managing Director Prerna Deshbhratar and LIDKAR Managing Director KM Vasundhara, issued a joint statement on Friday, saying, “LIDCOM and LIDKAR are the officially registered global GI holders of the Kolhapuri chappal. No individual or organisation other than themselves is authorised to engage in any discussion, negotiation, or representation with Prada or similar international entities,” says the statement.
In June, the Kolhapuri chappal stole the spotlight on the runway when Prada presented its Men’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Observers noted that the leather sandals worn by a model in the show bore a striking resemblance to the GI-tagged traditional Kolhapuri slippers from Maharashtra. This sparked strong reactions on social media and among traditional artisan communities.
Following the incident, a group of lawyers filed a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) in the Bombay High Court, alleging that Prada’s use of a design protected under GI registration constituted a violation of intellectual property laws. On July 16, the court dismissed the PIL, stating that in such matters, only the registered GI holders – namely, the leather industry development corporations of Maharashtra and Karnataka – are the legitimate stakeholders and hence, solely entitled to initiate any civil legal proceedings.
It is against this backdrop that LIDCOM and LIDKAR have together asserted their position as the officially registered global GI holders of the Kolhapuri chappal.
This development places the MACCIA in an awkward position as the body had turned the controversy into a possible opportunity for the traditional craftspeople who make these slippers in Kolhapur. A team from Prada has since visited local artisans and discussions are underway, on taking a step forward for the handcrafted chappal.
Lalit Gandhi, president of MACCIA, acknowledges that the GI tag rests with these two state corporations but, he clarified, since MACCIA is an independent body working for the benefit of businessmen and manufacturers, no one has the right to prevent it from advocating for the Kolhapuri chappal or the artisans who make it.
“We recognise the GI tag registration with LIDCOM and LIDKAR, and have informed Prada of this. Prada has assured that it will follow GI tag norms while dealing with craftsmen who make the Kolhapuri footwear. MACCIA is only a facilitator in this collaboration, and being an independent body has every right to engage in a dialogue with a company like Prada,” said Gandhi.